Feed up with trendy “Eaters” full of attitude and annoyances?
Had enough of martini menus, communal tables, and intimidating concept food. Its time to rediscover these classic American joints that never go out of style
I like steaks. I don’t like steak houses. They’ re either too glittery and expensive or too crude end dumbed down. It’s easy to make a lot of money selling steak that’s because the boys come In homes and order Cabernet Sauvignon by the tub. Sparks is an exception to that rule that steak houses don‘t have to be smart. The sirloin strip is consistently the best in the city. The service is polished (when the place frantically overcrowded). the wine list is wonderful, with some of the best Bordeaux bargains in America.
That’s probably the lure that doomed Paul Castellano, longtime Mob boss and budding wine connoisseur. Twenty years ago, he was famously shot down outside the front door.
By Alan Richman
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